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Take your puppy outside frequently on a regular schedule. A consistent schedule is the best way to avoid accidents. Very young puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals and naps. All puppies should be taken out first thing in the morning, just before you go to bed, and before they are confined or left alone. Puppies can hold their pee longer at night.

A 4 month old puppy should be able to make it through the night. Keep a close eye on your puppy to prevent accidents. Pacing, whining, circling, sniffing, and leaving the room are all signs that your puppy needs to pee or poop. Get her outside as quickly as possible. Use a crate or a small room with the door closed or blocked off by a baby gate.

As your puppy grows, you can gradually increase the size of the area, eventually letting her use multiple rooms. Reward your puppy when she pees or poops outside. During house training, you should always go outside with your puppy. Take her to the same place each time, so the smells will encourage her to go. Rewards peeing or pooping outside with praise, treats, or play. Stay calm if you catch your puppy in the middle of an accident. Clap sharply in order to startle her; this will usually cause her to stop.

Then quickly run with her outside, encouraging her to follow you. If your golden finishes peeing or pooping outside, give a reward. Method 4. Decide how trained you need your dog to be. It takes discipline, consistency, and time to teach you dog to walk at your side, never tugging on the leash or taking off to chase squirrels. In this case, a no-pull harness or head halter might do the trick without any extra training. Knowing what you are aiming for — and being on the same page with anyone else who walks the dog — is key. Get the right equipment.

Extendable leashes and very long ones will make training more difficult. For a collar, use: a regular buckle or snap collar; a slip collar; a head halter; or a no-pull harness. Never use a pinch or prong collar, unless training with a professional trainer. Make every walk into a training session. Consistency is the key, so until your dog can walk without pulling, every walk, no matter who gives it, is a training session.

Keep them short and fun. Going on a long walk with a dog who is not yet trained will only frustrate both of you. Exercise your dog before leash training sessions. This is important for two reasons: 1 until your puppy is trained, your walks will be too short to fully exercise her; and 2 dogs with lots of energy are more likely to pull. Play fetch or tug, or let your dog romp with other dogs at the park before your leash training sessions. Have treats on hand. For walks, soft ones like cheese, cooked hot dogs, jerky, or chicken are best, since they can be eaten quickly while your dog is walking.

Walk quickly. Choose your method. There are four main methods to teach your dog not to pull.

Golden Retriever Watercolor Tutorial with Sarah Cray

Some work better with some dogs than others. If you choose a method and appear to be making no progress after several weeks, pick another one.

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Wait until she puts slack in the leash, then call her to you and ask her to sit. Do this every time your dog reaches the end of the leash. Also give your dog treats regularly whenever she looks at you or walks close to you. You want her to associate walking near you with treats, and tugging with the walk stopping. If she tugs to smell something, stop as usual, but instead of giving her a treat after she sits, let her explore the scent she was going for as her reward.

Give a treat every few seconds. If she pulls, stop and call her back to you, then reward her.


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After a week, stop luring. Give a treat every other step.

ISBN 13: 9781409726241

In the coming walks, gradually increase the number of steps between treats: 2, 5, 10, Eventually, you should be able to walk your dog with only occasional treats. About face — This option is mainly for dogs that struggle with the first two methods. If she keeps going to the end, turn abruptly and head the other way, letting the leash check your dog. Praise your dog as she hurries to catch up, and when she reaches you, turn and resume walking in the original direction.

Do this every time your dog pulls. When your dog is walking near you or at your side, treat her regularly. This method should work quickly. If pulling does not decrease after several sessions, stop. Do not use this method with a head halter or pinch collar, as it may injure your dog. Collar correction - This option is mainly for dogs that struggle with the first two methods.

If she keeps going to the end, jerk abruptly on the leash. It may take several jerks to get your dog to slow down. Be sure to reward your dog regularly when she is walking near you with a slack leash. This method should reduce pulling in a couple of days. If it does not, you need to stop and try something else.


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  • Method 5. Use a crate to keep your puppy, and your possessions, safe when at home and traveling. There are a variety of reasons to crate train your dog. Use your crate: [21] To keep your puppy safe when you cannot watch her. To keep your belongings safe when you cannot watch your puppy. When your puppy is home alone. To give your puppy a place to calm down. When traveling. To keep your puppy away from children or other dogs. To aid in house training and other behavioral training. Know what not to use the crate for.

    Never use your crate to punish your dog. And once your dog is no longer a puppy and can be trusted not to destroy the house, do not crate your dog when you are away. Save the crate for special times — i. For the most part, your dog should enter her crate voluntarily. Choose a crate. The type of crate you use is up to personal preference, though many find that wire crates are the most durable and comfortable long-term solutions for dogs as well as being used at most kennels where you might board your dog.

    The most important thing is that you get the right size crate. If it is too small, your dog will not be comfortable.

    Retriever Breeds in Training

    If it is too large, it will provide the den-like space dogs crave. Your dog should be able to stand in the crate without hitting her head, to turn around comfortably, and to lie on their side with their paws stretched out. Also buy a divider if purchasing the crate for your puppy.

    Make the crate safe and comfortable. Your dog should enjoy her crate. It should provide a comfortable place for her to relax, so much so that she should choose to spend time there. Make sure to: [24] Put the crate in a room where you spend lots of time, so your puppy does not feel abandoned. Keep it a comfortable temperature: out of direct sunlight and far from fireplaces and radiators. Place soft bedding inside. Place chew toys inside to give your dog something to do. Cover your wire crate with a towel or crate cover.

    This will give it more of the den-like feel your dog craves. Teach your dog to associate the crate with good things. If you do it well, crate training will be much easier. Throw some new dog toys in, too. Let your dog explore the crate on her own. Let her go at her own speed. Every hour or so put more treats in the crate when your dog is not looking.

    Be sure to subtract all these treats from their daily food allowance. Also start feeding your dog in the crate. At first, put the bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in. After 2 or 3 successful feedings, move it to the middle, then all the way back. Train your dog to enter the crate for treats. Show your dog a treat and toss it in the crate.

    Move away and wait for her to leave the crate. Always use your cue words. Repeat the whole ritual several times a day until your dog is happily entering the crate to fetch treats. Teach your dog to enter the crate on command. After tossing a treat in once or twice to warm your dog up, use your command word without a treat. If she enters, praise profusely and give a treat or two. Also praise her when she leaves. Repeat this training several times a day for two or three days, until your dog is entering and leaving the crate on command.

    If your golden puppy struggles with this step, go back to the previous one. Close the door. Ask your puppy to enter the crate and sit. Slowly close the door. If you have to bang it shut before your dog escapes, then she is not ready for this step. When the door is closed, praise and give treats, then open the door and let her leave. Gradually lengthen the time they must sit in the crate before you let them out. Do sessions of training where they wait ten seconds, then 30, 45, and a minute.

    Move further away. When your dog can comfortably stay in the crate for a minute, you will want to start moving away while she is in the crate. In the first session, move only a few feet away before you come back. Move to different areas of the room and keep looking at your dog. Next, try training sessions where you move around the room without paying attention to your puppy. Add moments when you step out of the room briefly and return. Finally, leave the room.

    Leave the room. At first, stay out for only five minutes. Gradually increase the time you are gone to 30 minutes. Go back to the previous step or reduce the time you are leaving her. Always remove your puppies leash and collar before putting her in the crate, as they are choking hazards. Crate your dog when you are away. For a puppy, these will need to be shorter trips, as a puppy cannot be expected to go more than 3 hours or so without urinating. She needs to be able to get up and stretch her legs. Vary the time you put your dog in the crate. Sometimes do it ten minutes before you go. Sometimes five.

    Sometimes right before you head out the door. Praise your dog for entering her crate, then go. Have your dog sleep in the crate overnight. Now that your puppy is comfortable in her crate, she can sleep there overnight, but be sure you can hear her.

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    Puppies often need to pee in the middle of the night. Each dog is unique when it comes to crate training. Some goldens can be trained in a week or less. More timid dogs or those with bad previous experiences may take several weeks. Make sure they are comfortable with each step before moving to the next one. Method 6. Start with good habits. Golden retrievers love to fetch, and it is a great way to exercise them. But be sure to instill good habits early on to make sure they learn how to bring the toy back and drop it near you. Use two toys to teach your dog to bring the toy back.

    Throw one, and when your dog picks it up, show the other toy and throw it the other way. While he is chasing it, pick up the first toy. Eventually, you can call your dog without showing the second toy. If he comes, say drop it and show the second toy. When your dog will drop on command, you can eliminate the second toy. If he follows give a treat. If your dog still runs away, reel him in with the rope. Praise and reward when close.

    Let your dog chew on it sometimes after returning. After a few weeks, your dog should stop trying to escape with the toy. Use treats to get your dog to drop. This will get even the most stubborn dogs to give up the toy. Eventually you will not need the treat, but still give one every so often. Pick up after your dog as soon as he finishes his bathroom break — that way, there will be no delectable morsels for him to eat.

    These breed is beyond happy. To them, everyone is their best friend… which is why the Flat-Coated Retriever makes a poor guard dogs. A mouthy breed, the Flat-Coated Retriever will pick up most things with his mouth and take off running with it. Training is essential to curb this habit, as are plenty of toys that he can chew on. Flat-Coated Retrievers can develop separation anxiety.

    PUPPY BUYERS BEWARE!

    The Flat-Coated Retriever main health concerns are cancer, bloat, hip and elbow dysplasia, entropion, distichiasis, micropapilla, glaucoma and progressive retinal atrophy. As well, this breed can also suffer from hemangiosarcoma, fibrosarcoma, osteosarcoma and malignant histiocytosis. Your Flattie will need 60 to 90 minutes of exercise every day. This breed needs a backyard to run around in, although he will behave himself indoors. This dog will run and play until you tell him to come inside. Take your Flattie out on all your outdoor activities. This includes hikes, swims, jogs and bike rides.

    Originally bred to flush and retrieve both upland game and waterfowl, he transfers his determination, desire and verve on the hunting field to everyday life, enthusiastically participating in family activities and in the show, obedience and agility rings. Outfitted in a long, straight coat, the Flat-Coated Retriever is well protected from water and harsh weather. Its coat is heavier around the neck, and there is feathering on the ears, chest, tail, thighs and the back of the forelegs.

    Expect this coat to shed lightly during the year, with heavy shedding twice a year. Be warned: Flat-Coated Retrievers mature at a slower rate than other breeds. If you can handle all that puppy energy for years to come, this is the breed for you. Don't Miss Stories on PetGuide.