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Their lives are tough, and they know it. Zahra Amiri, 61 and the mother of nine, wakes up at dawn and brings water from a well, a long walk. After that she bakes bread and prepares breakfast.

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Often she joins her husband while shepherding, milks the sheep, makes yogurt and cheese. Her hands and face are darkened by the sun. If there is any time between chores, she works on a kilim, or carpet. To reach their summer destination, her year-old daughter, Forouzan, rode a horse, guiding her two sisters and eight mules carrying their belongings and a tent.

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The nomadic custom is that women give away their inheritance rights to their brothers. On the other hand, women are allowed to ride horses and carry guns, and Amiri had both. Many Iranian nomadic men say that milking, getting water, and giving inheritances to women are eib, or improper, for men to do.

The hard work, the lack of rights, and the knowledge that other Iranian women have easier lives have made many nomadic women agents of change. Mahnaz Gheybpour, 41, moved out of tents a decade ago. She and her husband migrate between two modest houses, one in the oil-rich province of Khuzestan, for winter, the other a place near Chelgard for the summer. I want them to live in a city and study.


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Gheybpour got married when she was The gender issues are exacerbated by a year-long drought that has dried up many of the main rivers and lakes and made it difficult for nomads to find water for their flocks. Increasing development has created fences, roads, and dams that now block passage. On the edge of Lali town, a place where many former Bakhtiari nomads end up in simple dwellings, Mehdi Ghafari and his friend Aidi Shams shared a water pipe.

The sun was setting as they reminisced about their past as nomads. Their wives are happier now, they admitted, and their children go to school. One of the last on the mountain, Nejat Ghanbari, the year-old husband of Bibi Naz, insisted that nomads stem from the pre-Islamic Iranian kings. Now he and his wife are the last. It makes me sad to realize this.

Fading Away

Magazine Dispatches. As modern life lures a generation to cities, some left behind struggle with drought and dust storms and wonder: What kind of life is this?

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Read Caption. Shirin Khodadadi, 26, makes tea with her son.


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  • Why Iran's nomads are fading away As modern life lures a generation to cities, some left behind struggle with drought and dust storms and wonder: What kind of life is this? By Thomas Erdbrink. Photographs by Newsha Tavakolian. This story appears in the October issue of National Geographic magazine.

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    Definition and synonyms of fade away from the online English dictionary from Macmillan Education. Show more. Show less. Using the thesaurus.

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    Close What are red words? Close Thesaurus. Other entries for this word. Related words. Synonyms and related words. To disappear, or to stop existing or happening: X has left the building , disappear , finish Explore Thesaurus.